The woman and I stare at each other across the desk. We’ve been trying unsuccessfully to communicate with each other for a while now. It’s clear to both of us what the basics of my request are, but it’s the details that are confounding us. We stare at each other some more, then she throws up her hands in exasperation and retreats through the door behind her; I raise up my hand weakly, as if to pull her back, then let it drop. With a sigh, I look down at the battered wood surface of the countertop, fingers tracing the grooves and nicks along the edge, and try to hold back the tears.
What am I doing here, anyway? D. and I almost always travel together, and never have we tried to do it separately in a foreign country. It seemed like such a simple idea when we discussed it over the Sunday paper a few weeks ago. He’d go to his conference in the capital, a grim industrial city with little charm, then join me in this small country town a few days later. I’d use the time to write and take photographs for the travel piece I was doing for World Traveler. The cobbled streets and winding alleyways of this place would make for a stunning photo essay; the small local churches and street-side markets had already caught my eye. I even hoped to visit one of the town's famous pottery studios and see if they’d be willing to do an interview with me after D. got here and could help with the translations.
It sounded so simple before. Now I’m wondering what to do. Our plan rested on me being able to find a local hostel or pensione or the like for the two of us. But we hadn’t counted on the complexities of the local accents, or fully appreciated how inadequate my language skills would be for the task. I found the train here just fine; people in the capital are used to clueless, misspoken foreigners, and signs in English are abundant. But after I debarked from the train, it was as if I’d passed through a veil into another world entirely. The women speak in a rapid, high-pitched fashion, as hard for my ears to grab onto as a dog’s whistle. The men rumble like gravel in a mixer, and the children… you might as well listen to birds.
No one has been unfriendly, not at all. The small man with the big head who helped me at the station was cheerful and smiling, even if my broken Spanish meant nothing to him. The kindly older woman who patted my arm kindly when I sat on my too-large suitcase to rest, confused by all the twisting streets, didn’t need a shared language to see I was in need of help. The laughing pack of children who dragged me to this place in which I now stand could tell at a glance that I was a stranger in need of a place to stay.
But what I’ve been totally unable to explain to anyone is that I am waiting for someone, that I need accommodations for more than one person. The notion of a woman traveling alone is puzzling enough to them; adding an absent partner to the mix has taxed my language skills past the breaking point. Even pantomime and doodles in my sketchbook provoke more confusion than understanding. I’d been trying to convey my needs to the proprietress for nearly an hour – a testament to her patience and my stubbornness – before she abandoned the fray. Now what? I sit down on my suitcase again and despair.
Wait! She has returned! And she’s dragging behind her a gangly young man with hair in his eyes. He flips it back with an unconsciously arrogant ease, like a cat flicking its tail in annoyance. She bounces around him, impatient but eager and shoves him toward me. “How can I help you?” he asks, in perfect, American-accented English. Saved!
Saved by the foreign exchange student program that taught her son English, back when he was fifteen. Thank god. Quickly I explain my needs, pay the deposit, and haul my suitcase up the small, crooked stairway. After I settle in, I realize how hungry and hot I am. I wonder, does the son like ice cream? Or pottery?
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